What's an ethical rat breeder? Is there a difference between rats you get at a pet store and from a breeder? Are all breeders created equal? Let's get into good pet rat sources.
I want to preface this with saying that rats are the best pets I have ever owned. I have had about 9 different species of pets, including dogs and cats, and I still prefer the company of rats over any other animal. They are incredibly loyal, smart, empathetic, and affectionate. They learn their names, come when called, are very clean animals, and do tricks and give kisses like dogs do. This is where the phrase "pocket puppy" comes from! They come in so many colors and varieties and every single rat has a unique personality. They live an average of 2-3 years and are so full of love that whole time. While they are a small portion of your life, you are their entire life. And they don't bark, meow, or need to be walked everyday!
Now that I've got the soppy stuff over with I want to get real with you! That experience is only from rats from good sources. I have been in this industry long enough to know that this is not the case for every single rat owner. It is my duty as a rat breeder to educate adopters on how to get that exact experience every time they get rats. So I want to talk about good pet rat sources.
Whatever you chose to do, please do not support rodent mills. Remember the "don't support puppy mills" saga? Rodents are treated just as awfully, if not worse, at commercial pet stores and feeder stores. Rats are unethically bred at these sources without any regard to their genetic health and temperament issues. While the rats seem friendly now, hormonal aggression does not occur until they are 4-12 months old. A bite from a hormonal rat can lead to nerve damage or transmitting diseases. Rats already live such short life spans (2-3 years average) and that number is significantly shorter for pet store/feeder rats. The conditions they are bred at these sources have zero enrichment, are overcrowded, and healthy rats are stepping over the sick ones. Males often have wounds from breeding which can easily become infected. You may think you are "rescuing" these animals from horrible conditions, but if you are giving them money and freeing up a space, they will simply breed again. They also are fed the cheapest food available and it does not meet their needs nutritionally, contributing to health issues their whole lives. I've been told stories of people who bought rats from a pet store and the worker was not able to tell male apart from female and they ended up with an oops litter which is an incredibly daunting task to take on. You also do not know their exact age or if they have any infectious diseases. Good rat breeders screen their animals for any infectious diseases and take their rats to the vet when needed. Along with all this, pet store and especially feeder rats are not handled regularly so they often have a fear of humans. A fearful animal may bite or run away to escape in your house.
So where should I get rats from? Find a local rescue or an ethical breeder. While I am a breeder, I still support rescues as I believe that every animal deserves a loving home. Here in New England there is Mainely Rat Rescue. Some animal shelters may have a small animal section with rats. The good thing about rescues is there is a detailed description of the rats' personalities and any health issues they may have. Occasionally there will be babies available. Some of these rats will have behavioral issues and need extra time bonding so if you have the patience and want to make a difference on an animal in need's life, rescuing is for you. Facebook often has local rat rehoming or small animal rehoming pages you can join.
If you want to ensure your rats live longer healthier lives and reduce the chance of behavioral issues, finding a good ethical breeder is for you. Unfortunately being a breeder, even when registered through AFRMA or NFRS organizations does not make them ethical or good. It is up to the adopter to research and screen each breeder to make sure they are breeding ethically with good health and temperament in mind. A breeder who breeds for color or profit may have rats genetically prone to hormonal aggression or health issues. There are many backyard breeders and novice breeders who do not have the rats or their adopter's best interests in mind.
Some things you want to look out for with breeders:
Do they have a screening/application process? It is a good sign if they have an application or ask you a lot of questions about yourself and your setup. That means they care about the homes that their animals are going to. Giving out rats to anyone with money is a bad sign.
Do they handle their rats from birth? Rats will be more human orientated if they are used to human contact. An exception to this is if the breeder has years of selective breeding for perfect temperament.
Do they have different prices for different varieties? If they up-charge for every single thing possible, they are in it for the money, not the betterment of the species. Some exceptions are incredibly difficult to breed/acquire genes such as but not limited to: Dwarves (small litters), or werewolf (incredibly rare in the US). Dumbo rats, most markings, and most colors are NOT rare and every single rat regardless of what they look like costs the same amount to produce. A reasonable price for rats in my opinion is $15 on lower end and $60 on higher end.
Are they willing to sell you one rat? Or a rat that is under 6 weeks old? Rats should never be sold individually or under 6 weeks as it is detrimental to their development and even with resident rats at home, a new rat needs to be quarantined for at least 2 weeks and being isolated that long can lead to behavioral issues.
Does this breeder conduct health tests from a lab for infectious diseases? Every breeder in the United States has access to health testing. Clubs like AFRMA here in the US recommend that every breeder tests for viruses and bacteria that are deadly to both rats and humans. From AFRMA.org Breeders' List: "Due to the many zoonotic viruses and bacteria (most are found in wild species), including the recent Seoul Hantavirus found in the Midwest pet rats Jan. 2017, plus the fact rats (nor mice) cannot be vaccinated for disease, breeders should test their rats (and mice), especially new stock, to make sure they are clear of these diseases as some diseases have no symptoms. Buyers please be aware that even though a breeder may have tested negative for a disease, these illnesses may be picked up after your purchase, especially if wild rodents have access to your pets or their food or bedding. Buyers should discuss pathogens with breeders and what measures the breeder takes to prevent disease."
Additionally, a good sign is if the rattery is a "closed rattery." If they allow anyone to view their rats, then the risk of disease is introduced. Good breeders send lots of pictures and videos of available rats and do not allow adopters in-person visits.
While its optional, a good sign is a breeder who give their rats preventative treatment for parasites (mites, fleas, ticks) before they go to new homes.
Do any of the moms exhibit maternal aggression or have bitten a human? Have any bucks from their line needed to be neutered, or bitten a human? Hormonal aggression is genetic and female rats who exhibit maternal aggression often produce male rats with excess testosterone which leads to aggressive behaviors between the ages of 4-12 months, referred to as hormonal aggression. If a breeder produces male rats that need to be neutered, that is a sign that they are trying to correct hormonal aggression or some sort of genetic health issue tied to their reproductive system/hormones.
Have they had any reports of skittish or aggressive rats from adopters? A skittish rat will take a lot of work to get them out of their shell and good breeders produce confident rats. Ask for videos of the rats being interacted with to see if they are skittish.
Do the rats looks ill? Excess porphyrin, or that red colored discharge, should not be visible on a rat's eyes or nose. These are indications of an ill rat. Rats who look skinny or are low energy are not healthy. Wounds on rats are an indication of improper housekeeping, forcing rats to be bred, or evidence that aggressive rats are a part of their stock. Rats should also have a clean, shiny coat indicating proper nutrition and cage cleaning are taking place.
How do they house their rats? Rats need enrichment and if you are going to buy from a breeder because you don't want to support the inhumane breeding conditions of pet stores, make sure you are asking to see what the breeder's setup is like. Some breeders are dual-purpose meaning they also breed for feeder rats and may have quantity over quality in mind. Rats need enrichment, things to do in a cage, and time outside of the cage to play. Breeding racks with nothing but wood chips, food, and water are unethical setups for such an intelligent and sentient animal. There should be hides, hammocks, things to gnaw on or play, and not be overcrowded. Don't be afraid to ask for pictures as a good breeder requires to see a picture of your set up too.
Ask how long their rats live! Breeders should be able to tell you exactly what the line's estimated lifespans will be and any health issues that may come up based on history. You want to hear that their rats die of old age.
This may seem daunting with all this information and I harped on all the negatives, but pet rats from good sources are amazingly loyal and affectionate pets. I am passionate about educating the community on good pet rat care and hate to see the heartbreak people endure when they get rats from a bad source. When done right, rats can live over 3 years, get along with every rat and human they interact with, and simply die of old age! I want everybody to experience that in their lives and know what it is like to be fully trusted by a prey animal. Good luck finding your new best pals!
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