Rats have a clearly defined social structure that include one alpha, betas, gammas, and zetas. This structure helps rats understand their place in the colony, maintaining peace once the ranks have been established and accepted by all.
Now when it’s time to add to our mischief, the structure of the colony must change all over again. This is where we have to do introductions! Introducing new rats to your existing group can be challenging, but with patience and the right methods, it’s possible to achieve a peaceful integration. Always try to adopt 2 related rats (or at least grew up in the same cage) at a time in case introductions do not go well, the 2 rats will still have each other. It helps them process the situation and settle in faster if they have a sibling the same age they can cuddle when overwhelmed.
There are two primary methods I recommend: the Carrier Method and the Neutral Space Method. To decide which method is best for you, consider your experience, your resident rats’ temperament, and the amount of time you can spend watching them closely. Males are harder to introduce than females, and introducing adults to other adults is more difficult than introducing babies to adults. Babies are less likely to be seen as a threat to adults. There are YouTube videos on both of these methods. I recommend waiting until the babies are 8-12 weeks so that they can be big enough to defend themselves.
The purpose of introductions is so that rats as a pack animal can establish who the alpha is, as a group of 3+, sometimes even 2, one will always be the alpha. This also means that the betas have to be established and willingly accept the alpha. The alpha, or whoever is trying to become the alpha, will make advances to try to get the other rats to submit. This is important that you let them settle it out, only intervening if true signs of aggression are being expressed. Therefore, it’s important to know what are good signs to look for and when to intervene!
Method 1: The Carrier Method
The carrier method is often preferred for its reduced injury risk and the ability to leave the rats together for extended periods. By placing the rats in a small carrier, you limit their space, reducing the likelihood of aggressive chases and injuries. I prefer a carrier that opens from the top so that I can easily access the rats if needed. I make my own small bin cages as they are slightly bigger than a carrier and I can easily affix a water bottle to the carrier. Plus they open from the top so I can easily get in there if needed. Use a sanitized clean carrier, include nothing but clean bedding, scattered food, and 2 water bottles on each side to make sure they have nothing to fight over. Do not place the carrier in the cage as they will smell the cage and think that they must defend the territory if the cage was theirs. I usually put them in a room that I don’t typically keep rats and away from other pets so there’s zero chance they think it’s their territory.
Key Points:
• Duration: Rats can stay in the carrier for a minimum of an hour, I prefer to do overnight. They can stay in it for up to a week if necessary.
• Space: Small carriers minimize the risk of injury since there’s less room to flee and fight.
• Warning Signs: Watch for puffed-up fur, side-stepping, loud huffing, and any biting or fighting that draws blood.
•Good Signs: Sleeping on each other, no longer avoiding each other, gentle grooming, no audible/visible fights for a few hours. Boxing (standing upright, front paws out, teeth bared), forced grooming, stepping over to pee on each other, and moderately forceful pinning are NOT signs of aggression but a way to work out dominance.
• Intervention: Distract aggressive behavior by tapping the carrier, yelling, or moving it. Only separate them if blood is drawn. If separated, try again once the wounds heal and scent swap or cage swap in the meantime.
Often, once a submissive rat gives in, the quarrels will subside. You can leave the rats in the carrier until they are cuddling or interacting without fear. If they’re not friendly after 24 hours and are still fighting or sleeping on opposite sides, continue the carrier method until the situation improves.
Method 2: The Neutral Space Method
A neutral space, such as a bathtub or couch, should be thoroughly cleaned to remove any existing scents that could trigger territorial behavior. Wipe down surfaces with a vinegar-water solution and use fresh bedding, blanket, or towels to neutralize the area. Have a towel ready to throw over them to distract them if a serious fight breaks out.
Key Points:
• Preparation: Neutralize the area by cleaning thoroughly with a vinegar-water mix.
• Injuries: Larger spaces increase the risk of injury as the submissive rat may try to flee, prompting a dominant rat to chase.
•Good/Bad Signs: Same as carrier method.
• When to Intervene: If aggression escalates (loud screaming, blood, or excessive wrestling), pause the process try again for a few more times over the next few days. Re-neutralize the area every time with fresh bedding and a wipe down. You can also try the carrier method, scent swapping method, or worst-case scenario- consider neutering/spaying.
Taking a Step Back: Scent Swapping
If physical introductions aren’t going well or you’re hesitant to begin, try scent swapping. This technique allows the rats to get used to each other’s scent before any physical meeting.
Scent Swapping Technique:
• Swap bedding, hammocks, hides, or toys between the rats’ cages.
• Swap the rats themselves into each other’s cages to further familiarize them with each other’s scent.
• Keep the cages about a foot apart so they can smell each other, but not too close that a tail can get snatched.
• Do this daily until you are ready to try physical meeting.
Handling Injuries
If injuries occur during introductions, treat the wounds with saline solution and wait for them to scab over or heal before reintroducing the rats. Sprained ankles need a horizontal cage they can’t climb and pain medication.
During this recovery period, continue scent swapping to keep the process moving forward. Call a vet if serious injuries are obtained. A rat who seriously injures other rats multiple times has genetic hormonal aggression due to excess hormones. They will likely need a spay/neuter to help them regulate the hormones that makes them aggressive if they are a young and healthy enough candidate. Make sure to visit an exotic vet who specializes in rats as dog/cat vets often fail at surgeries on small animals.
Additional Tips for Successful Introductions
1. Quarantine New Rats: Give new rats at least two days to adjust to their new home before attempting introductions. Ideally, wait two weeks to ensure they aren’t carrying any diseases that could spread to your resident rats. Look for signs of illness during this time and work on bonding so that they become comfortable with you and their new home.
2. Age Consideration: Wait until baby rats are at least 8-12 weeks old before introducing them to older rats. This ensures they are strong enough to defend themselves during interactions and have had enough practice play fighting with their siblings.
3. Use Vanilla Extract: A helpful trick to reduce tension is applying a small amount of vanilla extract to each rat before introductions. This masks their individual musk, making them all smell the same and ease the fears of a “new” rat.
4. Patience and Observation: Monitor the introductions closely, especially in the first few hours. If things escalate, don’t hesitate to take a step back and try again later. Try not to hover! It’s good to stay close in case things get aggressive but you shouldn’t need to be right next to them if after an hour they are settling down. They can pick up on your anxiety and also become unnecessarily anxious. If you put them in a carrier overnight, don’t put them right next to you while you sleep. Put them on a nightstand across the room so you can hear loud noises if a fight breaks out, but won’t be up all night anxious at every little sound.
5. Intervening: Don’t reach in while rats are fighting. You may get bit on accident or in the crossfire. If distracting isn’t working (slapping, yelling, physically moving cage to another space), open the carrier into the cage or into a a bathtub, and let the scared one(s) escape. You can use a towel or heavy gloves to hold back the aggressor. If using neutral space method, throw a towel over the rats to see if that stops the fight. If not, you can use the towel to grab the aggressor. Try your absolute best not to intervene unless you witness a serious injury or signs of persistant aggression. They ultimately need to work it out if you want them to get along!
They Get Along!! What’s Next?
If you have a very big cage (double critter nation or have more than 3 sq ft per rat), move them into a small cage (a little bigger than a carrier such as a single critter nation) once they do well in the first introduction stage. Only include bedding, scattered food, and water bottle(s). Add some of the bedding they established the hierarchy on in the first step into this cage. If all goes well, every couple hours add accessories- removing the accessories or the rats to go back a step if they start fighting again. Take this slow and don’t rush! Once you see those good signs of getting along, you can move them into that final big cage, using the same process as the small cage. The middle stage from small to big cage is not necessary if your initial intros go fabulous and quick and you plan to put them in a moderate sized cage out of the carrier or neutral space (between 2-3 sq ft per rat).
By using the carrier or neutral space method, scent swapping, close observation, and techniques like the vanilla trick, you can make the process smoother and less stressful for your rats. The alpha may get challenged throughout your pack’s lives and especially when new rats are introduced, so keep that in mind when dominance tussles arise.
Don’t forget to check out the Bonding Pouches and Budget Hammocks in my Etsy shop, which can help provide comfort to you and your rats during these transitions!
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